Porkoláb-völgy


 

Kadarka is our heritage, but that is not the main reason why we love it. Its grace, delicate tannins and distinctive spicy character make it an excellent match with modern cuisine. Kadarka is a capricious variety, so we have set out to identify and cultivate rare and forgotten clones to improve its consistency. In our experience great precision and low intervention in winemaking are the key to preserving its unique character.

Porkoláb-völgy is where our newly selected Kadarka clones are planted. The upper part of the valley is comprised of west facing slopes and a windy hilltop. We pick and ferment each of the 7 new clones separately and blend the best lots after harvest.

Conventional plant protection
No use of herbicides and insecticides
(certified organic conversion started in 2020)
Careful manual shoot and bunch selection

Hand harvest in 15kg boxes
5-6th September
Yield 6 tons/ha

Kadarka parcels in Porkoláb-völgy
P123, P115 and P131 clones, planted 2012
Total 2 hectares
W facing slope and hilltop
220-245m above sea level
Thick loess covered vineyards with red clay spots

Conventional plant protection
No use of herbicides and insecticides
(certified organic conversion started in 2020)
Careful manual shoot and bunch selection

Hand harvest in 15kg boxes
12-19th September 2019
Yield 6 tons/ha

Kadarka parcels in Porkoláb-völgy
P115 and P131 clones, planted 2012
Total 2 hectares
W facing slope and hilltop
220-245m above sea level
Thick loess covered vineyards with red clay spots

In conversion to organic plant protection
No use of herbicides and insecticides
Certification body: Biokontroll Hungária HU-ÖKO-01

Careful manual shoot and bunch selection

Hand harvest in 15kg boxes
17-22th September 2020.
Yield 3,5 tons/ha

Kadarka parcels in Porkoláb-völgy
P115 and P131 clones, planted 2012
Total 2 hectares
W facing slope and hilltop
220-245m above sea level
Thick loess covered vineyards with red clay spots

In 2018 flowering started early, at the end of May and it was followed by a warm and dry summer. Thirsty wasps had cut holes on the thin skins of the berries opening the gateway to fruitflies which started feasting on the grapes as early as mid-August.

Therefore we had to start picking quite early and at speed, right after our wedding ceremony on August 21. It was a painstaking process: to avoid picking unripe or vinagery bunches we had to return over and over again to the same plots. At the beginning of September there were 2 days of heavy rains (90-100mm) which interrupted our work but not much later we could finish the harvest.

The 2018 harvest has brought whole scale changes to our winery. What started earlier as experiments have now been applied to much larger lots: whole cluster fermentation, conversion from cultured yeast to indigenous yeast (pied de cuve) and long maceration in 5000-8000 litre wood or steel fermentation vats. We wanted to transfer the post-fermentation marc containing the pips in the most gentle way to the press, so instead of using pumps we opted for manual tools: spades and big boxes. The new way of fermenting has resulted in unprecedented freshness and intensity in our Kadarkas and to preserve these characteristics we decided to age the wines in steel tanks and large barrels for shorter periods.

Spontaneous fermentation in open plastic fermenters
with 30% whole bunches
Delicate extraction with daily 2x pigeage
Pressed without pumping after 13 days of skin contact
Spontaneous malolactic fermentation

Aging for 8 months in unlined clay amphorae

Estate bottled without fining and
with coarse filtration.

Tamlyn Currin, JancisRobinson.com »

Cherry skins and goji berries (earthy, sweet, red, piquant, dry). Tannins so silky and slippery they almost undress the wine as you taste. Cranberry is too tart, raspberry is too sweet, redcurrant is too tart. It balances, on point, somewhere on a tightrope between them all, teasing the tongue to find what it is. It scuffs sweet woodland earth into the air. It throws red petals in the air. It’s heady with white pepper. It’s gentle (as with all these wines), but not effete. It curves like a long, soft feather, and then finishes with a red-ink flourish on old parchment. (TC)
Drink 2020 – 2025
17,5 points

Dr. Jamie Goode, WineAnorak.com »

30% whole bunch. Lovely texture here: this has some warmth and depth, even though it is a lighter coloured wine. Strawberries and red cherries with a warm spicy edge. Lovely harmony and texture here with a floral edge to the textured red fruits. Finishes with a spicy flourish. Very fine. 94/100

Wein.Plus »

Slightly floral and a touch of herbaceous, rather cool scent of red berries with mineral traces. Clear, polished, cool and juicy fruit, some bite and very fine tannin, floral nuances, very slightly nutty, good persistence, certain minerality, quite elegant style, very good, fine juicy, polished finish. Very good. 85 WP

Alder Yarrow, Vinography.com

„Light ruby in the glass, this wine smells of sweet dried flowers and berries. In the mouth, supple and smooth flavors of forest berries mix with faint dried flower petals and delicate acidity. Powdery, very faint tannins. 12.0% alcohol. Score: between 9 and 9,5 

Tomasz Prange-Barczynski, Ferment

„Less aromatic, more earthy, very alive, fruity, more concentrated, round, full of kadarka character. Great structure.” 90 pts

Enjoy between 2020-2023
slightly chilled, preferably out of Burgundy glasses.

Grape varietiesKadarka
Alcohol11.97 %
Residual sugar1.2 g/l
Total acidity4.9 g/l
Total sulphur66 mg/l
Free sulphur22 mg/l
LicenceGSGO
Allergenscontains sulfites
ClosureDIAM 10 – guaranteed no cork taint
eCap 100% recyclable aluminium capsule
Total Production2100 bottles

In 2019 the cold springweather swiftly turned warm, leading to excessive growth of the wines in early June, and plenty of work with canopy management. Harvest run quasi free of any rainfall between September 5 and October 17. Due to the long ripening period, a charming, complete aromatic development is typical for the wines of 2019. A classical vintage of Szekszárd.

In Kadarka thirsty wasps had cut holes on the thin skins of the berries opening the gateway to fruitflies which started feasting on the grapes. Therefore we had to start a painstaking accurate picking: to avoid picking unripe or vinagery bunches we had to return over and over again to the same plots.

Spontaneous fermentation in open plastic fermenters
with 30% whole bunches
Delicate extraction with daily 2x pigeage
Pressed without pumping after 13 days of skin contact
Spontaneous malolactic fermentation

Aging for 8 months in unlined clay amphorae

Estate bottled without fining and
with coarse filtration.

Falstaff Shortlist, June 2021

Bright chimney red. Fine fruity scent of griottes. In addition, a hint of caramel and floral tones. In the mouth with supple fullness on the one hand, almost creamy, but on the other hand also with elegant lightness and a lot of juice. Harmonious acidity. In addition, an immensely fine tannin. Very original, delicately mineral playing wine.
92+ points, Falstaff Top Value

Hungary 2021 – A Decanter Guide to the wines, regions and styles

91 points. This wine has a very pale delicate ruby colour, but there is great fruit intensity on the nose. Bursting with sweet red berry fruits, almost like sugar-coated cherry and cranberry with over-ripe raspberry. The fruit aromas are uplifted by a fresh floral character, while there is a silky texture with focused acidity carrying the flavours through to the finish.
Tamlyn Currin Drink 2021-2025

Paul Kern, Weinkenner.de »

Einzellagen-Kadarka mit 30 Pro­zent Ganz­trau­ben­an­teil. Trotz­dem schmeckt der Wein kein biss­chen ger­big son­dern, hat eine enor­me Fri­sche, Heu­aro­men und Noten von gedörr­ter Wald­erd­bee­re. Leich­te Küh­lung unter­streicht die Sprit­zig­keit.

Enjoy between 2021-2025
slightly chilled, preferably out of Burgundy glasses.

„Szekszárd Bottle” is a regional quality seal, that may be used only for Kadarka, Kékfrankos and Szekszárd Bikavér wines, after passing a rigorous test.

Grape varietiesKadarka
Alcohol12.83 %
Residual sugar1.0 g/l
Total acidity5.2 g/l
Total sulphur41 mg/l
Free sulphur16 mg/l
Allergenscontains sulfites
ClosureDIAM 10 – guaranteed no cork taint
eCap 100% recyclable aluminium capsule
Total Production2100 bottles of 750ml

An average warm spring brought a slow start to growth. Flowering started a little late, in the first days of June. Due to the cold and rainy weather, berry set didn't go smoothly, leading to a 20-30% yield loss in most Kadarka plots. The summer was warm but without major heat waves. The very arid August was followed by a dry autumn, except for a heavy rain in early September. The few but excellent quality grapes were picked later than usual, in mid-September. In retrospect we see 2020 as a low yielding but beautifully ripe vintage.

Spontaneous fermentation in open plastic fermenters
with 30% whole bunches
Delicate extraction with daily 2x pigeage
Pressed without pumping after 8-12 days of skin contact
Spontaneous malolactic fermentation

Aging for 8 months in unlined clay amphorae

Estate bottled without fining or filtration.

JamesSuckling.com, Stuart Pigott

Fragrant, complex nose with floral, bright herb and ripe red-fruit aromas. Although this only has 12% alcohol, there’s an impressive interplay of restrained fruit, fine tannins and surprising ripeness and length on the pleasantly dry, medium-bodied palate. The long finish is as complex as the nose, but the dominant note is the fine red fruit. Drink or hold.
**** Score: 92 Points

Wine.Plus »

Clear, youthful, tart, somewhat dried-vegetable and a hint of nutty scent of red and black berries with floral nuances. Lean, fine-juicy, fresh, tart fruit, some acid bite and moderate, fine-sandy tannin, some persistence, dried-vegetable and peppery nuances, also a little salt in the background, good to very good, tart finish.
Very good. 87 WP.
Best to drink 2026+

Enjoy between 2022–2027
slightly chilled, preferably out of Burgundy glasses.

„Szekszárd Bottle” is a regional quality seal, that may be used only for Kadarka, Kékfrankos and Szekszárd Bikavér wines, after passing a rigorous test.

Grape varietiesKadarka
Alcohol12.00 %
Residual sugar0.8 g/l
Total acidity5.4 g/l
Total sulphur44 mg/l
Free sulphur16 mg/l
Allergenscontains sulphites
ClosureArdeaSeal closures guarantee a consistent and uniform development in bottle with no risk of TCA.
Total Production2620 bottles of 750 ml