Effilee #56. Frühjahr 2021, by Ursula Heinzelmann
H&F Szekszárd Kadarka 2019
One word is enough: enjoyable. Okay, maybe two: very enjoyable. A balance of fine fruit and round acidity, unpretentious and anything but banal due to discreet tart tannins. The transparent, bright red wine reminds of raspberries, blueberries, strawberries, blackberries, a few currants, maybe even a lingonberry... Like a dessert called Fruits rouges, red fruits, on the terrace the Café Marly in the Louvre: instead of pâtisserie-tinkering only fresh berries from some raspberry coulis.
Heimann & Fiai (sons), that's Zoli Heimann, who is developing a new style in his parents' winery in Szekszárd in southern Hungary, with Kékfrankos and Kadarka. "Vinified without tools" he says in his wonderful Hungarian German, "Nichtsmacherweine." This is of course modest, such simple things require care in the vineyard, manual selection, the conversion to organic and Zoli's parents have already worked on better vine material, especially for the Kadarka. It ripens irregularly and is susceptible to botrytis, the wines are light and acidic - "It doesn't matter," says Zoli, "I just like it." It is an incredibly skillful balancing act to venture so little. The single-vineyard version, Porkoláb-völgy, will soon be launched, vinified in clay amphorae for the first time in 2019, which takes the balancing act even more to the extreme.
I like that. It's easy.